Date: 13 of July 2009
Location: Kovalam Beach
Accomplishments: We cycled 60 kilometers from Varkala Beach to Kovalam Beach
Easy cycling physically-- flat terrain, however traffic was medium to heavy, medium pollution
martes, 25 de agosto de 2009
Varkala highlights
Date: July 10, 2009
Location: Varkala Beach, Kerala State, India
Accomplishments: We cycled 130 kilometers/78 miles today from Allepey to Varkala Beach!
Traveling is not always a dreamy vista over a glass of wine. While it is unpredictable, adventurous, and exciting, sometimes those same exact feelings of unpredictability take a negative avenue and they change from excitement to stressful. After a while the unpredictability piece becomes scary and I yearn for the comforts of my own place. Today while cycling the ocean front road through smog and overbearing traffic, dodging rickshaws, bull drawn carts, buses, cars, people everywhere, I miss the regularity and comfort of the Kal-Haven trail and my own street.
At 1:00, we stop at a vegetarian hotel/restaurant for veg thali (veg set meal of the day). I go to wash my hands and I realize that my face and arms are covered in a gray film. The "ocean view road" has turned out to be "smog lane outlined by garbage, factories,and shacks.
Eating lunch, we order a mineral water, and I feel bad for all the plastic bottles that we waste. I think of all the people and each day all the plastic bottles, containers, wrappers, bags, so much we throw away Even though I care, plastic waste and creating garbage is our human way of life and it is so hard to avoid.
Reader, I challenge you to survive one single day without creating any garbage! Try going to the store to purchase anything! Everything comes in a package!
So after a good chai tea and veg curries with rice, we are re-energized. WE face the crazy streets.
8.5 hours total cycling time, we make the last stretch into Varkala. The main road ends into the ocean. Immediately, I feel the salt stick to my already smog-frosted arms. A man in a humble tea stall says,
"Hello! You are coming from?"
"America!" I say.
"Nice! Your good name?"
"Steve and she is Teresa!"
We rest our bikes on the pole outside and enjoy two glasses of cardamom tea.
"You stay here in Varkala today?" he asks
"Yes," I respond.
"Where is a good place?"
"Direct opposite, nice place, nice family and here I can make for you dinner,
Kerala food," he smiles. Then he brings us a photograph of several American people eating in his restaurant.
Even though we are so hot, sweaty, polluted, grimy, and salty, the sea breeze is welcoming. The cardamom milk spice tea is soothing. We look at the lodge next door. It has a beautiful sea view off of a large room for only 500 rupees. The lodge becomes our haven for the next three days. The man next door and his wife become our chefs of masala dosas, parotas, and vegetable curries.
A few moments to remember from Varkala Beach:
1. Sitting on the balcony, we watch the local Indian tourists do religious chants/prayers under umbrellas on the beach.
2. The waves are phenomenally HUGE. They CRASH into the cliffs that slowly feed the land to the hungry sea.
3. We walk along the cliff with an incredible view on the left of the sea and a chain of restaurants and lodges on our right. As Steve and I walk along, I casually make eye-contact with a girl sitting in a cafe.
"Steve, we just passed this girl in that cafe back there and I swear that I know her from somewhere!"
Then like a light-switch it clicks!
"I know! She is the girl that entered Zina Cottages as we were leaving Munnar! Before she was wearing a pink and blue chudidah shirt that I adored! Now she is wearing all black," I say, " I've got an idea! We will walk back slowly. You look at her and tell me if that is her, the girl from Munnar!"
We turn around and in front of the cafe, she waves to us. We walk up to her. A moment's recognition of an acquaintance becomes an hour conversation with a friend. Tanya, as it turns out is from Chicago-- only three hours from our home of Kalamazoo. It's as if we had to travel half way around the world to meet her. Hopefully, we will cross paths again, only this time it will be closer to home!
Location: Varkala Beach, Kerala State, India
Accomplishments: We cycled 130 kilometers/78 miles today from Allepey to Varkala Beach!
Traveling is not always a dreamy vista over a glass of wine. While it is unpredictable, adventurous, and exciting, sometimes those same exact feelings of unpredictability take a negative avenue and they change from excitement to stressful. After a while the unpredictability piece becomes scary and I yearn for the comforts of my own place. Today while cycling the ocean front road through smog and overbearing traffic, dodging rickshaws, bull drawn carts, buses, cars, people everywhere, I miss the regularity and comfort of the Kal-Haven trail and my own street.
At 1:00, we stop at a vegetarian hotel/restaurant for veg thali (veg set meal of the day). I go to wash my hands and I realize that my face and arms are covered in a gray film. The "ocean view road" has turned out to be "smog lane outlined by garbage, factories,and shacks.
Eating lunch, we order a mineral water, and I feel bad for all the plastic bottles that we waste. I think of all the people and each day all the plastic bottles, containers, wrappers, bags, so much we throw away Even though I care, plastic waste and creating garbage is our human way of life and it is so hard to avoid.
Reader, I challenge you to survive one single day without creating any garbage! Try going to the store to purchase anything! Everything comes in a package!
So after a good chai tea and veg curries with rice, we are re-energized. WE face the crazy streets.
8.5 hours total cycling time, we make the last stretch into Varkala. The main road ends into the ocean. Immediately, I feel the salt stick to my already smog-frosted arms. A man in a humble tea stall says,
"Hello! You are coming from?"
"America!" I say.
"Nice! Your good name?"
"Steve and she is Teresa!"
We rest our bikes on the pole outside and enjoy two glasses of cardamom tea.
"You stay here in Varkala today?" he asks
"Yes," I respond.
"Where is a good place?"
"Direct opposite, nice place, nice family and here I can make for you dinner,
Kerala food," he smiles. Then he brings us a photograph of several American people eating in his restaurant.
Even though we are so hot, sweaty, polluted, grimy, and salty, the sea breeze is welcoming. The cardamom milk spice tea is soothing. We look at the lodge next door. It has a beautiful sea view off of a large room for only 500 rupees. The lodge becomes our haven for the next three days. The man next door and his wife become our chefs of masala dosas, parotas, and vegetable curries.
A few moments to remember from Varkala Beach:
1. Sitting on the balcony, we watch the local Indian tourists do religious chants/prayers under umbrellas on the beach.
2. The waves are phenomenally HUGE. They CRASH into the cliffs that slowly feed the land to the hungry sea.
3. We walk along the cliff with an incredible view on the left of the sea and a chain of restaurants and lodges on our right. As Steve and I walk along, I casually make eye-contact with a girl sitting in a cafe.
"Steve, we just passed this girl in that cafe back there and I swear that I know her from somewhere!"
Then like a light-switch it clicks!
"I know! She is the girl that entered Zina Cottages as we were leaving Munnar! Before she was wearing a pink and blue chudidah shirt that I adored! Now she is wearing all black," I say, " I've got an idea! We will walk back slowly. You look at her and tell me if that is her, the girl from Munnar!"
We turn around and in front of the cafe, she waves to us. We walk up to her. A moment's recognition of an acquaintance becomes an hour conversation with a friend. Tanya, as it turns out is from Chicago-- only three hours from our home of Kalamazoo. It's as if we had to travel half way around the world to meet her. Hopefully, we will cross paths again, only this time it will be closer to home!
Canoes and coconuts in Allepey, Kerala, India
Date: July 9, 2009
Location: Sona Heritage Homestay
Accomplishments: Seven hour canoe journey through small canal channals, villages, and rice paddies.
At 10:00 a.m. a man arrives in a flower print skirt on a motor-bike.
"You ready for village tour?" he asks spotting us waiting on the patio.
"Yes!" we reply excitedly, always ready for the adventure to begin. WE follow him for five minutes walking to the end of the narrow road where it meets with the channel-way.
Slim waterways outlined by coconut trees...A strip of colorful houses are held up on a narrow strip of land in between miles of rice paddies and the canal. Its like a neighborhood street, except for instead of a street there is a canal, instead of a car, every family has their own wooden canoe parked on the curb. Women and men
come onto the street-canal way to wash their clothing, bathe, and rush their teeth. Bright blue and green king-fisher birds fly above. Picturesque, I feel like I am on the Discovery Channel or on National Geographic Documentary film!
Location: Sona Heritage Homestay
Accomplishments: Seven hour canoe journey through small canal channals, villages, and rice paddies.
At 10:00 a.m. a man arrives in a flower print skirt on a motor-bike.
"You ready for village tour?" he asks spotting us waiting on the patio.
"Yes!" we reply excitedly, always ready for the adventure to begin. WE follow him for five minutes walking to the end of the narrow road where it meets with the channel-way.
Slim waterways outlined by coconut trees...A strip of colorful houses are held up on a narrow strip of land in between miles of rice paddies and the canal. Its like a neighborhood street, except for instead of a street there is a canal, instead of a car, every family has their own wooden canoe parked on the curb. Women and men
come onto the street-canal way to wash their clothing, bathe, and rush their teeth. Bright blue and green king-fisher birds fly above. Picturesque, I feel like I am on the Discovery Channel or on National Geographic Documentary film!
Welcome to Allepey, Kerala, India!
Date: July 9, 2009
Location: Sona Heritage Home Allepey town, Kerala State, India
Accomplishments: Previous day (June 8) We cycled 30 miles from Kochi to Allepey on NHWAY 47. At first, I was worried about traffic, but the road was wide, divided part of the way and flat-- so it was an easy ride and probably safer than the winding mountain roads that we previously conquered.
"You want boat-house?"
"I have boat-house for you!" When we enter Allepey, it seems as though we have "sucker! I am a push-over! Sell it to me!" signs posted on our backs. Everybody wants to sell us a boat tour. However, being on our bicycles is an easy escape, a saving grace from the heaps of tour vendors. We sail past them. We follow our Lonely Planet Guidebook suggestion and we cycle one kilometer North of town and stay at Sona Heritage Homestay.
A jolly Indian man greets us, welcomes us. He shows us photographs of all the boat tour options from a massive house boats, mini-motor boats, or paddle canoes. He hands me a notebook filled with tourist positive feedback. We sign up for a paddle canoe ride for the next day. Reading the guidebook ahead of time, I learned that the backwaters, streams, and lakes in Allepey are in great danger and are over polluted. Part of the over-pollution is caused by the expansive tours in house boats. Keeping this in mind, I am happy to sign up for the simple canoe with NO motor! We spend the rest of the day cycling around town, sipping chai tea in a restuarant over-looking the foggy ocean. We find an amazing vegetarian restaurant called, "Hot Kitchen," that serves fantastic masala dosas. A masala dosa is a thin crepe filled with potato/onion curry accompanied with coconut chutney and zambar (vegetable okra) sauces.
We go to sleep dreaming of what adventures our canoe village tour will bring!
Location: Sona Heritage Home Allepey town, Kerala State, India
Accomplishments: Previous day (June 8) We cycled 30 miles from Kochi to Allepey on NHWAY 47. At first, I was worried about traffic, but the road was wide, divided part of the way and flat-- so it was an easy ride and probably safer than the winding mountain roads that we previously conquered.
"You want boat-house?"
"I have boat-house for you!" When we enter Allepey, it seems as though we have "sucker! I am a push-over! Sell it to me!" signs posted on our backs. Everybody wants to sell us a boat tour. However, being on our bicycles is an easy escape, a saving grace from the heaps of tour vendors. We sail past them. We follow our Lonely Planet Guidebook suggestion and we cycle one kilometer North of town and stay at Sona Heritage Homestay.
A jolly Indian man greets us, welcomes us. He shows us photographs of all the boat tour options from a massive house boats, mini-motor boats, or paddle canoes. He hands me a notebook filled with tourist positive feedback. We sign up for a paddle canoe ride for the next day. Reading the guidebook ahead of time, I learned that the backwaters, streams, and lakes in Allepey are in great danger and are over polluted. Part of the over-pollution is caused by the expansive tours in house boats. Keeping this in mind, I am happy to sign up for the simple canoe with NO motor! We spend the rest of the day cycling around town, sipping chai tea in a restuarant over-looking the foggy ocean. We find an amazing vegetarian restaurant called, "Hot Kitchen," that serves fantastic masala dosas. A masala dosa is a thin crepe filled with potato/onion curry accompanied with coconut chutney and zambar (vegetable okra) sauces.
We go to sleep dreaming of what adventures our canoe village tour will bring!
miércoles, 5 de agosto de 2009
The ocean is a cemetery
Date: July 7, 2009
Location: Fort Kochin
Accomplishments: We took the ferry to Viplin Island and cycled 20 km to and 20 km return from the beach.
We begin the day with a two minute walk next door to the veg hotel (A hotel is a restaurant NOT a place to stay) for Iddly. Iddly is a common South Indian breakfast of rice dumplings with coconut chutney sauce and sambar curried vegetables.
At 9:00 AM, we pay two rupees each to ride the ferry to he island. The ferry is packed with local people on motorcycles. like sardines, we squish onto the boat. The ride takes only a few minutes. Exiting the ferry onto the island, I am surprised y the hectic traffic. We cycle North on the island through a continuous cloud of smog as rickshaws, buses, motorcycles zoom in front, in back, and around me. Finally after an hour of crazy cycling, battling the traffic, we reach the beach. The ocean is angry. It pounds on the large boulders. The waves are gray. All around, there are disgarded plastic bottles and bags washed up on shore. It looks like a dump. The ocean to me looks like a cancer patient. if we don't save it and find a cure, the ocean will cough itself to death.
Dear readers, please reuse cups. Don't use plastic disposible cups and utencils. so many of them find their cemetary in our vast oceans.
Location: Fort Kochin
Accomplishments: We took the ferry to Viplin Island and cycled 20 km to and 20 km return from the beach.
We begin the day with a two minute walk next door to the veg hotel (A hotel is a restaurant NOT a place to stay) for Iddly. Iddly is a common South Indian breakfast of rice dumplings with coconut chutney sauce and sambar curried vegetables.
At 9:00 AM, we pay two rupees each to ride the ferry to he island. The ferry is packed with local people on motorcycles. like sardines, we squish onto the boat. The ride takes only a few minutes. Exiting the ferry onto the island, I am surprised y the hectic traffic. We cycle North on the island through a continuous cloud of smog as rickshaws, buses, motorcycles zoom in front, in back, and around me. Finally after an hour of crazy cycling, battling the traffic, we reach the beach. The ocean is angry. It pounds on the large boulders. The waves are gray. All around, there are disgarded plastic bottles and bags washed up on shore. It looks like a dump. The ocean to me looks like a cancer patient. if we don't save it and find a cure, the ocean will cough itself to death.
Dear readers, please reuse cups. Don't use plastic disposible cups and utencils. so many of them find their cemetary in our vast oceans.
Exchanging the Mountains for the Sea shore
July 6, 2009
Location: Fort Cochin, Kerala State, India
Accomplishments: We cycled 20 KM from Adimaly mountain town to Fort Cochin on the coast.
Cycling down a large hill in theory sounds easy and relaxing. As we start the journey of exchanging the mountain for the sea shore, we begin a long series of narrow hairpin turns. The scenery is amazing; waterfalls in all directions with the jungle threatening to overtake the road. As much as I want to stare and take in all the sights of scenery, it takes all of my concentration to conrol my bicycle and wind carefully around each turn. It begins raining heavy. Around the next curve, we see that a car has slid off the road. Luckely, it went over where the cliff wasn't too steep. A large truck is pulling it out with a chain. Let this be our lesson to be careful.
And carefully I go. Occasionally a wild bus comes from behind. We pull off on the muddy side, stop, and let it pass. A two way road winding up the mountains, so narrow! When we reach Kothagalomon, we celebrate our skillful ride with Chappati, vegetable curry, and chai tea. From now to teh coast the road will be flat. Flat, but traffic thickens and we find ourselves darting around people, rickshaws, cows, buses--CRAZY! Stop and go, fast and slow. Then all cars and traffic comes to a hault when they have to pay a toll to cross a bridge. A friendly trucker waves for us to pass everyone. We don't have to pay the toll! We are cyclers! Crossing the bridge onto the island of Fort Cochin is easy since the traffic is held back.
Arriving in Cochin, a man on a motorcycle rides along side us.
"You need a place? A room? I have nice clean room. For you only 200 rupees! Please just come and see!"
Initally, I am unsure since the hotel is not in our guidebook.
"Ok! We will have a look," Steve agrees before I can protest.
Just on the edge of town, the man stops in front of a large blue building. He welcomes us and indroduces us to his wife. He shows me the room. It is immaculate! Better yet, right next door is a veg hotel (restaurant, not a place to stay).
I lay here now, comfortable, watching the Discovery channel, reflecting on our accomplishments. Good night! I look forward to exploring the island tomorrow and meeting the sea!
Location: Fort Cochin, Kerala State, India
Accomplishments: We cycled 20 KM from Adimaly mountain town to Fort Cochin on the coast.
Cycling down a large hill in theory sounds easy and relaxing. As we start the journey of exchanging the mountain for the sea shore, we begin a long series of narrow hairpin turns. The scenery is amazing; waterfalls in all directions with the jungle threatening to overtake the road. As much as I want to stare and take in all the sights of scenery, it takes all of my concentration to conrol my bicycle and wind carefully around each turn. It begins raining heavy. Around the next curve, we see that a car has slid off the road. Luckely, it went over where the cliff wasn't too steep. A large truck is pulling it out with a chain. Let this be our lesson to be careful.
And carefully I go. Occasionally a wild bus comes from behind. We pull off on the muddy side, stop, and let it pass. A two way road winding up the mountains, so narrow! When we reach Kothagalomon, we celebrate our skillful ride with Chappati, vegetable curry, and chai tea. From now to teh coast the road will be flat. Flat, but traffic thickens and we find ourselves darting around people, rickshaws, cows, buses--CRAZY! Stop and go, fast and slow. Then all cars and traffic comes to a hault when they have to pay a toll to cross a bridge. A friendly trucker waves for us to pass everyone. We don't have to pay the toll! We are cyclers! Crossing the bridge onto the island of Fort Cochin is easy since the traffic is held back.
Arriving in Cochin, a man on a motorcycle rides along side us.
"You need a place? A room? I have nice clean room. For you only 200 rupees! Please just come and see!"
Initally, I am unsure since the hotel is not in our guidebook.
"Ok! We will have a look," Steve agrees before I can protest.
Just on the edge of town, the man stops in front of a large blue building. He welcomes us and indroduces us to his wife. He shows me the room. It is immaculate! Better yet, right next door is a veg hotel (restaurant, not a place to stay).
I lay here now, comfortable, watching the Discovery channel, reflecting on our accomplishments. Good night! I look forward to exploring the island tomorrow and meeting the sea!
sábado, 18 de julio de 2009
Of rain and goats
Date: July 5, 2009
Location: Adimali (30 km West from Munnar, Kerala State, India) Arafia Tourist Home
I wake up and I hear the pitter patter, pitter patter of rain. I close my eyes and go back to my dream land beneath the covers. At 7:30, tap, tap, tap on the door.
"Morning!" I hear Shahul's voice.
"Yes! We are getting up!" I am now eager to start the day of adventures with our Indian brothers. I want to breathe in deeply, inhale feel, and devour every moment of our friendship, time together, profoundly because I know our paths will not cross together for long.
We begin our day together with tea--Tetly tea. Joseph Iype and his wife join us. Sonu says, "We should weave some plans to meet again." We study the map and even though his town of Mannarkkard was never in OUR plans, it is in the master plan of destiny and it becomes one of the main destinations on our return journey to Bangalore. We agree to be in Mannarkkard on July 24th until July 28th when we will catch a train to Bangalore.
"Let's enjoy the moments together we have in Munnar," I say.
"Let's go to town and enjoy breakfast!" Steve adds, taking the last sip of his tea.
"Ok, we take some photographs first," Sonu suggests.
I take a photograph of Steve with his Indian brothers. Joseph and his wife join in (owners of the cottage). It feels like a family reunion.
We put on our rain pants and jackets and hop on the back of Sonu and Shahul's motorcycles. We go carefully down the dirt muddy hill through the tea plantations. I cling onto Sonu's small frame. We cross a small bridge going through a monster mud puddle. At the paved road, we turn left. We swerve and dart around rick-shaws. We park the motorcycles outside of a hotel. Hotel does NOT mean a place to stay. It means a place to eat. Inside, we sit on plastic chairs and order porota and chickpeas in curry sauce. Porota is a circle shaped doughy bread. Sonu and Shahul laugh at us as we struggle to break apart the bread with only our right hands. I explain to them that in America, if you would eat with your fingers in a restaurant, everyone would stare at you! Indians think it is strange that you would need a fork to eat with. Even though the rain has not stopped, we still climb on the motorcycles. Just five minutes out of town, we are zooming past tea plantations. We go eight kilometers outside of Munnar to the entrance of a National Park. In the National Park, we walk in the clouds where we see a remarkable type of mountain goat that can climb up mountain rock. They are nearly extinct and can only be seen in two places in the world (Munnar, India and New Zealand).
The rain pounds with strength on the pavement, each drop bouncing up and sticking to my shoes.
"What we do next?" Shahul asks.
We all look at one another. Nobody wants to offend the other.
"As you wish," Sonu says, smiling.
"No! As you wish," I respond. A moment of silence passes as we try to read each others minds.
"We can go back to town and have tea!" Steve suggests. Eagerly, we all affirm. Even though we are all Young adventurous spirits, the rain begins to soak through our clothes. We are content to return to town and share cup after cup of tea together.
Coffee and tea are my favorite beverages and they are a great second ingredient to friendship- the first ingredient being love.
Sonu and Shahul-- it is hard to part ways. It is hard to see you go one way on your motorcycles towards Mannarkkad while we go another way towards Kochi. Even harder will be in August when we depart for America and you stay in India. The ocean will separate us, but bigger than the ocean is the blessing to have met you, to become your brother and your sister.
We pedal out of Munnar. Even though the rain is heavy and cold in the mountain air, we feel the warmth of our brotherhood and our memories with you.
We travel thirty kilometers downhill. Our brakes, soaking wet, only slow us down when we grip them. They do not stop us. It is already nearly five o'clock. We stop in this quaint town outlined by mountains and waterfalls.
Sonu once told me while riding the motorcycle together that on Earth we actually have three lives; our life in our mother's womb, our life while being awake, and our life while dreaming in our sleep. I am going to my world of dreams...
W
Location: Adimali (30 km West from Munnar, Kerala State, India) Arafia Tourist Home
I wake up and I hear the pitter patter, pitter patter of rain. I close my eyes and go back to my dream land beneath the covers. At 7:30, tap, tap, tap on the door.
"Morning!" I hear Shahul's voice.
"Yes! We are getting up!" I am now eager to start the day of adventures with our Indian brothers. I want to breathe in deeply, inhale feel, and devour every moment of our friendship, time together, profoundly because I know our paths will not cross together for long.
We begin our day together with tea--Tetly tea. Joseph Iype and his wife join us. Sonu says, "We should weave some plans to meet again." We study the map and even though his town of Mannarkkard was never in OUR plans, it is in the master plan of destiny and it becomes one of the main destinations on our return journey to Bangalore. We agree to be in Mannarkkard on July 24th until July 28th when we will catch a train to Bangalore.
"Let's enjoy the moments together we have in Munnar," I say.
"Let's go to town and enjoy breakfast!" Steve adds, taking the last sip of his tea.
"Ok, we take some photographs first," Sonu suggests.
I take a photograph of Steve with his Indian brothers. Joseph and his wife join in (owners of the cottage). It feels like a family reunion.
We put on our rain pants and jackets and hop on the back of Sonu and Shahul's motorcycles. We go carefully down the dirt muddy hill through the tea plantations. I cling onto Sonu's small frame. We cross a small bridge going through a monster mud puddle. At the paved road, we turn left. We swerve and dart around rick-shaws. We park the motorcycles outside of a hotel. Hotel does NOT mean a place to stay. It means a place to eat. Inside, we sit on plastic chairs and order porota and chickpeas in curry sauce. Porota is a circle shaped doughy bread. Sonu and Shahul laugh at us as we struggle to break apart the bread with only our right hands. I explain to them that in America, if you would eat with your fingers in a restaurant, everyone would stare at you! Indians think it is strange that you would need a fork to eat with. Even though the rain has not stopped, we still climb on the motorcycles. Just five minutes out of town, we are zooming past tea plantations. We go eight kilometers outside of Munnar to the entrance of a National Park. In the National Park, we walk in the clouds where we see a remarkable type of mountain goat that can climb up mountain rock. They are nearly extinct and can only be seen in two places in the world (Munnar, India and New Zealand).
The rain pounds with strength on the pavement, each drop bouncing up and sticking to my shoes.
"What we do next?" Shahul asks.
We all look at one another. Nobody wants to offend the other.
"As you wish," Sonu says, smiling.
"No! As you wish," I respond. A moment of silence passes as we try to read each others minds.
"We can go back to town and have tea!" Steve suggests. Eagerly, we all affirm. Even though we are all Young adventurous spirits, the rain begins to soak through our clothes. We are content to return to town and share cup after cup of tea together.
Coffee and tea are my favorite beverages and they are a great second ingredient to friendship- the first ingredient being love.
Sonu and Shahul-- it is hard to part ways. It is hard to see you go one way on your motorcycles towards Mannarkkad while we go another way towards Kochi. Even harder will be in August when we depart for America and you stay in India. The ocean will separate us, but bigger than the ocean is the blessing to have met you, to become your brother and your sister.
We pedal out of Munnar. Even though the rain is heavy and cold in the mountain air, we feel the warmth of our brotherhood and our memories with you.
We travel thirty kilometers downhill. Our brakes, soaking wet, only slow us down when we grip them. They do not stop us. It is already nearly five o'clock. We stop in this quaint town outlined by mountains and waterfalls.
Sonu once told me while riding the motorcycle together that on Earth we actually have three lives; our life in our mother's womb, our life while being awake, and our life while dreaming in our sleep. I am going to my world of dreams...
W
Sonu and Shahul visit Munnar!
04-07-2009
Location: Munnar, Kerala State, India
BRROOOOOMMMMM!! ZOOOOOOMMMMM!" I stand on my toes and I can see just over the bushes. The rain pelts my rain jacket, but ha ha, it cannot get me wet! As the motor-cycle rounds the corner, I get a good look at the person driving it. "Could it be? Is is Sonu or Shahul?" The face is of an older man and the make if the motor-cycle is wrong. We anxiously await our Indian friends from Mannarkard for over an hour but the rain is getting heavy now.
"Let's go back to the hotel for a bit. We will come back in twenty minutes." Steve suggests.
I eagerly agree to escape the rain.
Just as we begin to climb the muddy road and disappear into the tea plantations towards our Zina Cottage, the cellphone rings. As Murphey's Law would have it, the moment after we leave our perch, our friends arrive!
We run down the hill and splash right through the puddles to embrace our dear friends. I am so happy to see them and to know that they arrived safely after such a long journey!
"How long did it take you?" I ask Sonu.
He counts on his fingers and then, "Nine hours, but it is worth it! We enjoy the adventure of motor-cycling!" Sonu replies.
----- Our friends Sonu and Shahul, rode their motor-cyles from their small city of Mannarkadd to Munnar to build our friendshp. We invited them to stay with us and REALLY enjoyed their company. Hours of walking, talking over chai, and motor-cycling to the National park where the mountain goat is famous-- Adventures together made our friendship grow. Just before departing, Sonu asked if he could write his account of our time together in my journal so I will allow him to narrarate our tale through his perspective :)
04-July-2009
Saturday
Today I and Shahul started the journey at 3:50 a.m. Yesterday we didn't sleep at all. I was getting ready to come and see my Steve and Teresa. My mom and papa and everybody were happy eventhough they felt little bit scared to send us above to Munnar. Because you are loved not only by me and Shahul but also by my Mom and brother and sister.
Price of petrol is hiked so as a protest against petrol price rising, there is a strike. So, the road was not rush as usual.
We reached Munnar at 2:00. When I saw Steve and Teresa waving their hands towards us, I was filled with some sort of feeling which cannot be expressed in words. We came back to the rooms and had tea.
Today afternoon, we went for walking up to the viewpoint. But Teresa was still interested with walking at a stretch. As far as I am concerned, I don't like walking very much.
As evening onwards,some sort of emotions were trying to conquer me. I asked myself, what it is but little later only I could understand that the emotions was regarding how to leave them and about planning of the coming days.
Today at this night, at right now, I am very very happy (more than you can imagine) because Steve and Teresa confirmed their decision that they will come to Mannarkkad on 24th July. Because if they are coming on 24th, Thursday, Friday, Saturday, and Sunday I can be with them. Yes, I can be with them! I can be with them! I am not capable ever to just imagine of their departure. I may become mad on that day. I love 24. I hate August 3rd very much. Good Night.
Location: Munnar, Kerala State, India
BRROOOOOMMMMM!! ZOOOOOOMMMMM!" I stand on my toes and I can see just over the bushes. The rain pelts my rain jacket, but ha ha, it cannot get me wet! As the motor-cycle rounds the corner, I get a good look at the person driving it. "Could it be? Is is Sonu or Shahul?" The face is of an older man and the make if the motor-cycle is wrong. We anxiously await our Indian friends from Mannarkard for over an hour but the rain is getting heavy now.
"Let's go back to the hotel for a bit. We will come back in twenty minutes." Steve suggests.
I eagerly agree to escape the rain.
Just as we begin to climb the muddy road and disappear into the tea plantations towards our Zina Cottage, the cellphone rings. As Murphey's Law would have it, the moment after we leave our perch, our friends arrive!
We run down the hill and splash right through the puddles to embrace our dear friends. I am so happy to see them and to know that they arrived safely after such a long journey!
"How long did it take you?" I ask Sonu.
He counts on his fingers and then, "Nine hours, but it is worth it! We enjoy the adventure of motor-cycling!" Sonu replies.
----- Our friends Sonu and Shahul, rode their motor-cyles from their small city of Mannarkadd to Munnar to build our friendshp. We invited them to stay with us and REALLY enjoyed their company. Hours of walking, talking over chai, and motor-cycling to the National park where the mountain goat is famous-- Adventures together made our friendship grow. Just before departing, Sonu asked if he could write his account of our time together in my journal so I will allow him to narrarate our tale through his perspective :)
04-July-2009
Saturday
Today I and Shahul started the journey at 3:50 a.m. Yesterday we didn't sleep at all. I was getting ready to come and see my Steve and Teresa. My mom and papa and everybody were happy eventhough they felt little bit scared to send us above to Munnar. Because you are loved not only by me and Shahul but also by my Mom and brother and sister.
Price of petrol is hiked so as a protest against petrol price rising, there is a strike. So, the road was not rush as usual.
We reached Munnar at 2:00. When I saw Steve and Teresa waving their hands towards us, I was filled with some sort of feeling which cannot be expressed in words. We came back to the rooms and had tea.
Today afternoon, we went for walking up to the viewpoint. But Teresa was still interested with walking at a stretch. As far as I am concerned, I don't like walking very much.
As evening onwards,some sort of emotions were trying to conquer me. I asked myself, what it is but little later only I could understand that the emotions was regarding how to leave them and about planning of the coming days.
Today at this night, at right now, I am very very happy (more than you can imagine) because Steve and Teresa confirmed their decision that they will come to Mannarkkad on 24th July. Because if they are coming on 24th, Thursday, Friday, Saturday, and Sunday I can be with them. Yes, I can be with them! I can be with them! I am not capable ever to just imagine of their departure. I may become mad on that day. I love 24. I hate August 3rd very much. Good Night.
viernes, 17 de julio de 2009
Hillside walk/Roller-Coaster Bus in Munnar
July 3, 2009
Location: Munnar, Kerala State, India, Zina Cottage
All night, we hear the rain hammering on the roof. Then early morning, the sun calms it down and the rain hovers in a mist cloud over the valley.
"What will you do?" Joseph Iype asks as we sip on morning tea.
"Maybe we will go walking," I suggest.
"Yes, madam, I can draw you a map. 17 kilometers, you can walk and see all the tea, cardomom spices, pepper spices, and coffee. Then you can take the bus to return. Have another cup of tea first, Madam."
We walk down the hill and enjoy Idly set (rice dumplings) in curry, okra sauce for breakfast. The waiter is polite and calls us "Sir" and "Madam." Since British English is spoken here, everyone addresses us as Sir and Madam. The Idlys power us up for the hills on our walk and indeed we can see miles and miles of tea plantations from the quiet narrow country road. Banana plants, spice bushes, jack fruit trees, and coconut trees line the road. We are lost in the scenery for hours. When it rains, our rain pants and jackets keep us dry from the Monsoon.
After walking for 17 kilometers through the valley, we reach the main road in Anachal. In just ten minutes, a bus comes roaring up the hill and we hop on to return to Munnar. For only one second, I relax in one of the front seats. Then the driver wildly roars up and around each hairpin turn up the mountain. I nearly fall out of my seat on several occasions. I clench onto Steve's arm. The driver honks as we near a curve. The road is only wide enough for one vehicle. Even though we can not see around the mountain, he roars the engine. Suddenly, he hammers the brake, as an oncoming bus is directly in front of us. The drivers stare at each other momentarily until they creep around each other with only an inch to spare in between them and an inch on the side of the cliff!
When we reach Munnar, I jump off the bus before completely reaching town. Enough wild roller-coaster bus ride for me!
When we arrive back at Zina Cottage, after our long walk/short roller-coaster adventure, Joseph makes us tea with cardamom spice. The same spice that we observed growing on the hillside is now warming our bodies. Then there is a knock at the door. A rick-shaw driver appears at the door with two shivering tourists!
"We are Mike and Di from New York!"
Finally!!! We meet other tourists! We are so excited to unite with people from our own culture! Tomorrow we look forward to having breakfast together. We hope also that our friends Sonu and Shahul will arrive safely from Mannarkadd.
We are blessed with the company who once strangers now feel like brothers and sisters. To all, PEACE!
Location: Munnar, Kerala State, India, Zina Cottage
All night, we hear the rain hammering on the roof. Then early morning, the sun calms it down and the rain hovers in a mist cloud over the valley.
"What will you do?" Joseph Iype asks as we sip on morning tea.
"Maybe we will go walking," I suggest.
"Yes, madam, I can draw you a map. 17 kilometers, you can walk and see all the tea, cardomom spices, pepper spices, and coffee. Then you can take the bus to return. Have another cup of tea first, Madam."
We walk down the hill and enjoy Idly set (rice dumplings) in curry, okra sauce for breakfast. The waiter is polite and calls us "Sir" and "Madam." Since British English is spoken here, everyone addresses us as Sir and Madam. The Idlys power us up for the hills on our walk and indeed we can see miles and miles of tea plantations from the quiet narrow country road. Banana plants, spice bushes, jack fruit trees, and coconut trees line the road. We are lost in the scenery for hours. When it rains, our rain pants and jackets keep us dry from the Monsoon.
After walking for 17 kilometers through the valley, we reach the main road in Anachal. In just ten minutes, a bus comes roaring up the hill and we hop on to return to Munnar. For only one second, I relax in one of the front seats. Then the driver wildly roars up and around each hairpin turn up the mountain. I nearly fall out of my seat on several occasions. I clench onto Steve's arm. The driver honks as we near a curve. The road is only wide enough for one vehicle. Even though we can not see around the mountain, he roars the engine. Suddenly, he hammers the brake, as an oncoming bus is directly in front of us. The drivers stare at each other momentarily until they creep around each other with only an inch to spare in between them and an inch on the side of the cliff!
When we reach Munnar, I jump off the bus before completely reaching town. Enough wild roller-coaster bus ride for me!
When we arrive back at Zina Cottage, after our long walk/short roller-coaster adventure, Joseph makes us tea with cardamom spice. The same spice that we observed growing on the hillside is now warming our bodies. Then there is a knock at the door. A rick-shaw driver appears at the door with two shivering tourists!
"We are Mike and Di from New York!"
Finally!!! We meet other tourists! We are so excited to unite with people from our own culture! Tomorrow we look forward to having breakfast together. We hope also that our friends Sonu and Shahul will arrive safely from Mannarkadd.
We are blessed with the company who once strangers now feel like brothers and sisters. To all, PEACE!
martes, 7 de julio de 2009
Elephants and Aliens
Date: July 2, 2009
Time: 10:00 p.m. Indian Time
Location: Zina Cottage, Munnar, Kerala State, India
Accomplishments: 70 k.m. from Munnar town to top station view point
The monsoon arrived today and it stayed. Heavy rain that does not stop. Once and a while it takes a break and becomes a gentle mist, then it returns to full force, pounding on the glass windows. We awake to the song of a bird that sounds like a human whistle and of course the rain. We have tea with Joseph Iype while we wait for the rain to give clear skies a chance to shine. At 9:00, we realize that the rain has come to accompany us wherever we go today. we decide to cycle to town and buy rain suits (plastic jacket and pants). We cycle up through the gentle hills with the rain knocking, pounding on our wet suits. It does not penetrate through our rain gear. Because we know that the tea and the people depend on the rain, we accept and welcome it. We cycle all the way to the top station view point on the border of two states (Kerala and Tamil Nadu). The views are breathe-taking. On the way back, a forest guard stops us an says, "Elephant!" Even though it is raining, the elephants come out to eat. At first, they look like large boulders in the distance. Then I see the large trunk move and indeed there are two elephants-- a mother and a baby! A funny joke-- while we are "Sight-seeing," the Indian people are also "sight-seeing." We stare and marvel at the views, endless rolling tea plantations, brown monkeys playing in the trees, the elephants grazing in the distance... The Indians stare and marvel at the aliens on space-ship bicycles, crazily cycling in the monsoon. Every little while, a car or a motorcycle stops. At first a shy smile, then "Please, photograph?" On at least four separate occasions, we are asked if we will pose for a photograph.
An all day cycling adventure and the winning favorite moment of the day is seeing the elephants while riding down the road on my bicycle! We end the day with a hot bucket shower and hot tea. Then at 8:30 p.m., we turn on the television and Muhsin, the guy we met in Manarkadd, is singing! He is singing in an American Idol style television reality show. Although I cannot understand a word, the song is beautiful!
Time: 10:00 p.m. Indian Time
Location: Zina Cottage, Munnar, Kerala State, India
Accomplishments: 70 k.m. from Munnar town to top station view point
The monsoon arrived today and it stayed. Heavy rain that does not stop. Once and a while it takes a break and becomes a gentle mist, then it returns to full force, pounding on the glass windows. We awake to the song of a bird that sounds like a human whistle and of course the rain. We have tea with Joseph Iype while we wait for the rain to give clear skies a chance to shine. At 9:00, we realize that the rain has come to accompany us wherever we go today. we decide to cycle to town and buy rain suits (plastic jacket and pants). We cycle up through the gentle hills with the rain knocking, pounding on our wet suits. It does not penetrate through our rain gear. Because we know that the tea and the people depend on the rain, we accept and welcome it. We cycle all the way to the top station view point on the border of two states (Kerala and Tamil Nadu). The views are breathe-taking. On the way back, a forest guard stops us an says, "Elephant!" Even though it is raining, the elephants come out to eat. At first, they look like large boulders in the distance. Then I see the large trunk move and indeed there are two elephants-- a mother and a baby! A funny joke-- while we are "Sight-seeing," the Indian people are also "sight-seeing." We stare and marvel at the views, endless rolling tea plantations, brown monkeys playing in the trees, the elephants grazing in the distance... The Indians stare and marvel at the aliens on space-ship bicycles, crazily cycling in the monsoon. Every little while, a car or a motorcycle stops. At first a shy smile, then "Please, photograph?" On at least four separate occasions, we are asked if we will pose for a photograph.
An all day cycling adventure and the winning favorite moment of the day is seeing the elephants while riding down the road on my bicycle! We end the day with a hot bucket shower and hot tea. Then at 8:30 p.m., we turn on the television and Muhsin, the guy we met in Manarkadd, is singing! He is singing in an American Idol style television reality show. Although I cannot understand a word, the song is beautiful!
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