sábado, 18 de julio de 2009

Of rain and goats

Date: July 5, 2009
Location: Adimali (30 km West from Munnar, Kerala State, India) Arafia Tourist Home

I wake up and I hear the pitter patter, pitter patter of rain. I close my eyes and go back to my dream land beneath the covers. At 7:30, tap, tap, tap on the door.

"Morning!" I hear Shahul's voice.
"Yes! We are getting up!" I am now eager to start the day of adventures with our Indian brothers. I want to breathe in deeply, inhale feel, and devour every moment of our friendship, time together, profoundly because I know our paths will not cross together for long.

We begin our day together with tea--Tetly tea. Joseph Iype and his wife join us. Sonu says, "We should weave some plans to meet again." We study the map and even though his town of Mannarkkard was never in OUR plans, it is in the master plan of destiny and it becomes one of the main destinations on our return journey to Bangalore. We agree to be in Mannarkkard on July 24th until July 28th when we will catch a train to Bangalore.

"Let's enjoy the moments together we have in Munnar," I say.
"Let's go to town and enjoy breakfast!" Steve adds, taking the last sip of his tea.
"Ok, we take some photographs first," Sonu suggests.
I take a photograph of Steve with his Indian brothers. Joseph and his wife join in (owners of the cottage). It feels like a family reunion.

We put on our rain pants and jackets and hop on the back of Sonu and Shahul's motorcycles. We go carefully down the dirt muddy hill through the tea plantations. I cling onto Sonu's small frame. We cross a small bridge going through a monster mud puddle. At the paved road, we turn left. We swerve and dart around rick-shaws. We park the motorcycles outside of a hotel. Hotel does NOT mean a place to stay. It means a place to eat. Inside, we sit on plastic chairs and order porota and chickpeas in curry sauce. Porota is a circle shaped doughy bread. Sonu and Shahul laugh at us as we struggle to break apart the bread with only our right hands. I explain to them that in America, if you would eat with your fingers in a restaurant, everyone would stare at you! Indians think it is strange that you would need a fork to eat with. Even though the rain has not stopped, we still climb on the motorcycles. Just five minutes out of town, we are zooming past tea plantations. We go eight kilometers outside of Munnar to the entrance of a National Park. In the National Park, we walk in the clouds where we see a remarkable type of mountain goat that can climb up mountain rock. They are nearly extinct and can only be seen in two places in the world (Munnar, India and New Zealand).

The rain pounds with strength on the pavement, each drop bouncing up and sticking to my shoes.
"What we do next?" Shahul asks.
We all look at one another. Nobody wants to offend the other.
"As you wish," Sonu says, smiling.
"No! As you wish," I respond. A moment of silence passes as we try to read each others minds.
"We can go back to town and have tea!" Steve suggests. Eagerly, we all affirm. Even though we are all Young adventurous spirits, the rain begins to soak through our clothes. We are content to return to town and share cup after cup of tea together.

Coffee and tea are my favorite beverages and they are a great second ingredient to friendship- the first ingredient being love.

Sonu and Shahul-- it is hard to part ways. It is hard to see you go one way on your motorcycles towards Mannarkkad while we go another way towards Kochi. Even harder will be in August when we depart for America and you stay in India. The ocean will separate us, but bigger than the ocean is the blessing to have met you, to become your brother and your sister.

We pedal out of Munnar. Even though the rain is heavy and cold in the mountain air, we feel the warmth of our brotherhood and our memories with you.

We travel thirty kilometers downhill. Our brakes, soaking wet, only slow us down when we grip them. They do not stop us. It is already nearly five o'clock. We stop in this quaint town outlined by mountains and waterfalls.

Sonu once told me while riding the motorcycle together that on Earth we actually have three lives; our life in our mother's womb, our life while being awake, and our life while dreaming in our sleep. I am going to my world of dreams...

W

Sonu and Shahul visit Munnar!

04-07-2009
Location: Munnar, Kerala State, India


BRROOOOOMMMMM!! ZOOOOOOMMMMM!" I stand on my toes and I can see just over the bushes. The rain pelts my rain jacket, but ha ha, it cannot get me wet! As the motor-cycle rounds the corner, I get a good look at the person driving it. "Could it be? Is is Sonu or Shahul?" The face is of an older man and the make if the motor-cycle is wrong. We anxiously await our Indian friends from Mannarkard for over an hour but the rain is getting heavy now.

"Let's go back to the hotel for a bit. We will come back in twenty minutes." Steve suggests.
I eagerly agree to escape the rain.

Just as we begin to climb the muddy road and disappear into the tea plantations towards our Zina Cottage, the cellphone rings. As Murphey's Law would have it, the moment after we leave our perch, our friends arrive!

We run down the hill and splash right through the puddles to embrace our dear friends. I am so happy to see them and to know that they arrived safely after such a long journey!

"How long did it take you?" I ask Sonu.
He counts on his fingers and then, "Nine hours, but it is worth it! We enjoy the adventure of motor-cycling!" Sonu replies.

----- Our friends Sonu and Shahul, rode their motor-cyles from their small city of Mannarkadd to Munnar to build our friendshp. We invited them to stay with us and REALLY enjoyed their company. Hours of walking, talking over chai, and motor-cycling to the National park where the mountain goat is famous-- Adventures together made our friendship grow. Just before departing, Sonu asked if he could write his account of our time together in my journal so I will allow him to narrarate our tale through his perspective :)

04-July-2009
Saturday

Today I and Shahul started the journey at 3:50 a.m. Yesterday we didn't sleep at all. I was getting ready to come and see my Steve and Teresa. My mom and papa and everybody were happy eventhough they felt little bit scared to send us above to Munnar. Because you are loved not only by me and Shahul but also by my Mom and brother and sister.

Price of petrol is hiked so as a protest against petrol price rising, there is a strike. So, the road was not rush as usual.

We reached Munnar at 2:00. When I saw Steve and Teresa waving their hands towards us, I was filled with some sort of feeling which cannot be expressed in words. We came back to the rooms and had tea.

Today afternoon, we went for walking up to the viewpoint. But Teresa was still interested with walking at a stretch. As far as I am concerned, I don't like walking very much.

As evening onwards,some sort of emotions were trying to conquer me. I asked myself, what it is but little later only I could understand that the emotions was regarding how to leave them and about planning of the coming days.

Today at this night, at right now, I am very very happy (more than you can imagine) because Steve and Teresa confirmed their decision that they will come to Mannarkkad on 24th July. Because if they are coming on 24th, Thursday, Friday, Saturday, and Sunday I can be with them. Yes, I can be with them! I can be with them! I am not capable ever to just imagine of their departure. I may become mad on that day. I love 24. I hate August 3rd very much. Good Night.

viernes, 17 de julio de 2009

Hillside walk/Roller-Coaster Bus in Munnar

July 3, 2009
Location: Munnar, Kerala State, India, Zina Cottage

All night, we hear the rain hammering on the roof. Then early morning, the sun calms it down and the rain hovers in a mist cloud over the valley.

"What will you do?" Joseph Iype asks as we sip on morning tea.
"Maybe we will go walking," I suggest.
"Yes, madam, I can draw you a map. 17 kilometers, you can walk and see all the tea, cardomom spices, pepper spices, and coffee. Then you can take the bus to return. Have another cup of tea first, Madam."

We walk down the hill and enjoy Idly set (rice dumplings) in curry, okra sauce for breakfast. The waiter is polite and calls us "Sir" and "Madam." Since British English is spoken here, everyone addresses us as Sir and Madam. The Idlys power us up for the hills on our walk and indeed we can see miles and miles of tea plantations from the quiet narrow country road. Banana plants, spice bushes, jack fruit trees, and coconut trees line the road. We are lost in the scenery for hours. When it rains, our rain pants and jackets keep us dry from the Monsoon.

After walking for 17 kilometers through the valley, we reach the main road in Anachal. In just ten minutes, a bus comes roaring up the hill and we hop on to return to Munnar. For only one second, I relax in one of the front seats. Then the driver wildly roars up and around each hairpin turn up the mountain. I nearly fall out of my seat on several occasions. I clench onto Steve's arm. The driver honks as we near a curve. The road is only wide enough for one vehicle. Even though we can not see around the mountain, he roars the engine. Suddenly, he hammers the brake, as an oncoming bus is directly in front of us. The drivers stare at each other momentarily until they creep around each other with only an inch to spare in between them and an inch on the side of the cliff!

When we reach Munnar, I jump off the bus before completely reaching town. Enough wild roller-coaster bus ride for me!

When we arrive back at Zina Cottage, after our long walk/short roller-coaster adventure, Joseph makes us tea with cardamom spice. The same spice that we observed growing on the hillside is now warming our bodies. Then there is a knock at the door. A rick-shaw driver appears at the door with two shivering tourists!
"We are Mike and Di from New York!"

Finally!!! We meet other tourists! We are so excited to unite with people from our own culture! Tomorrow we look forward to having breakfast together. We hope also that our friends Sonu and Shahul will arrive safely from Mannarkadd.

We are blessed with the company who once strangers now feel like brothers and sisters. To all, PEACE!

martes, 7 de julio de 2009

Elephants and Aliens

Date: July 2, 2009
Time: 10:00 p.m. Indian Time
Location: Zina Cottage, Munnar, Kerala State, India
Accomplishments: 70 k.m. from Munnar town to top station view point

The monsoon arrived today and it stayed. Heavy rain that does not stop. Once and a while it takes a break and becomes a gentle mist, then it returns to full force, pounding on the glass windows. We awake to the song of a bird that sounds like a human whistle and of course the rain. We have tea with Joseph Iype while we wait for the rain to give clear skies a chance to shine. At 9:00, we realize that the rain has come to accompany us wherever we go today. we decide to cycle to town and buy rain suits (plastic jacket and pants). We cycle up through the gentle hills with the rain knocking, pounding on our wet suits. It does not penetrate through our rain gear. Because we know that the tea and the people depend on the rain, we accept and welcome it. We cycle all the way to the top station view point on the border of two states (Kerala and Tamil Nadu). The views are breathe-taking. On the way back, a forest guard stops us an says, "Elephant!" Even though it is raining, the elephants come out to eat. At first, they look like large boulders in the distance. Then I see the large trunk move and indeed there are two elephants-- a mother and a baby! A funny joke-- while we are "Sight-seeing," the Indian people are also "sight-seeing." We stare and marvel at the views, endless rolling tea plantations, brown monkeys playing in the trees, the elephants grazing in the distance... The Indians stare and marvel at the aliens on space-ship bicycles, crazily cycling in the monsoon. Every little while, a car or a motorcycle stops. At first a shy smile, then "Please, photograph?" On at least four separate occasions, we are asked if we will pose for a photograph.

An all day cycling adventure and the winning favorite moment of the day is seeing the elephants while riding down the road on my bicycle! We end the day with a hot bucket shower and hot tea. Then at 8:30 p.m., we turn on the television and Muhsin, the guy we met in Manarkadd, is singing! He is singing in an American Idol style television reality show. Although I cannot understand a word, the song is beautiful!

Mountains and Munnar

Date: July 1, 2009
Time: 8:30 p.m. Indian time
Location: Zina Cottates, Munnar, Kerala India

The road clings to the ridge of the mountain. We follow it as if it was a ribbon wrapped around the mountain which is a gift from God. The gentle climb rewards us with majestic views of the valley. The tea plantations paint the hills in an endless shade of green. Soon we are in the clouds. A gentle mist makes the uphill climb bearable. We battle the hill/mountains for 30 kilometers before we conquer it. We are rewarded with a winding descend through the clouds and into Munnar. Entering Munnar, it begins to rain heavy. We pull into a restaurant.
I order, "Veg meal!" the Hindi set meal of the day. In minutes, the waiter places a large banana leaf in front of me and globs rice, curry, hot peppers, and bean and okra salad on top of the banana leaf. I use my right hand to mix the vegetable curries and the rice together and scoop it into my mouth. Together, we study the Lonely Planet Guidebook for ideas of where to stay. A description of Zina Cottage captures my interest.
"Nestled in the tea plantations...just outside of town..."
The rain lets up briefly and we cycle at first down the main road. It forks in several directions and we get lost in all the turns until we find a Kerala tourist information store.

"Where is Zina Cottage?" Steve asks a helpful lady inside. She calls Zina Cottage for us. The lady at Zina Cottage answers the phone and is very welcoming.

"You are from America! You must come and visit us! We will have a room waiting for you! We are directly opposite the Hill view Hotel."

We cycle onward. The rain begins again. We reach Hill View Hotel, and we do not see anything in front of it. We turn around and take another fork in the road. Still no Zina Cottage anywhere! The rain is heavy now. Combined with the altitude, the rain is cold and sends by body into shivers. Finally, we ask somebody on the street, "Where is Zina Cottage?" A friendly man points up a small rocky road leading into a tea plantation.

"I sure hope this is worth it, after getting soaked in the heavy rain and cycling in circles looking for it!" I exclaim, walking my bicycle up a steep grade. Finally, we see it! A small building with Zina painted on it and an old man waiting outside, waving wildly at us.

"Welcome!" he says, "Come, come. You are the Americans! We were worried about you! We thought you would come in Auto rickshaw! My name is Joseph Iype. You must come inside for some tea."

A warm welcome of tea, hot bucket shower, smiles, beautiful views of the tea plantations, a great dinner of gobi manchurian and roti--- Munnar is everything and more than we had hoped for it to be!

Thank you, Iype and your wife for your wonderful hospitality and welcome!

The tiger didn't eat me!

Date: June 30, 2009
Location: Chandana Residency, Marayoor
Accomplishments: We cycled from Udamalpet up into the mountains 45 kilometers to Marayoor.

Leaving Udamalpet, the smog and hustle and bustle of a town disappears within a mile of cycling. The road narrows. At first we glide easily through dry cactis, desert terrain. Rice paddies crackle. They are parched and dehydrated. It makes me sad. Here, Honduras, Nicaragua, Thailand, Cambodia, Malaysia, all over the world we see climate change affecting the amount of rainfall. It begins to cause food shortage in poverty areas. I wonder, will it cause world wide water and food shortage in the future?

Soon, our narrow road winds gently into the hills.

"Annamadai Tiger Reserve," A sign reads.

Curve after cactus, no towns, no people.

"Steve, what if a tiger comes out and eats me?" I ask, suddenly a bit frightened now that all the towns have disappeared.

"Tamil is famous for its tigers," Steve teases me.

I pedal faster, as fast as I can until the mountain traps me in first gear, sweat dripping into my eye.

A road sign announces some strange character symbol and 4.
I eagerly pedal four kilometers to reach the unknown destination. I am illiterate, but at least the numbers are universal. The brush on the left side of the road rustles and breaks open. I cringe, bracing myself for a tiger to pounce. A peacock with bright blue and green feathers flutters across the road. After a four kilometer climb, we read a forest check point with a forest office/cafeteria building. We stop for a cup of chai tea. The ranger welcomes us to the state of Kerala/leaving the state of Tamil Nadu.

For a moment, I rejoice that I have survived the tiger reserve. Then a sign welcomes us to "Chinnar Wildlife Reserve," and reads, "Be cautious of elephants-- Drive Slow."
The ascends seem endless. Every time a tree moves, I now wait for a large elephant to thrust itself into my path and grab me bicycle and all with its enormous trunk.
A man rests on the roadside, gazing into the valley.

"Hi!" I greet him as I crawl up the hill.

"Bla...blaaa..blaa...blaaaa..elephant!" he says, pointing into the valley below the road. We stop and are so excited to spot a wild elephant eating grass down in the valley.

Needless to say, I survived half the mountain ride to Munnar without being devoured by a tiger or elephant. Now it is my time to devour a very spicy, chilly gobi with Parota (doughy bread) to celebrate my survival.

Hospitality, A visit with an Indian Family

Date: June 29, 2009
Time: 9:30 p.m. Indian Time
Location: Hotel in Udumalaippetai
Accomplishments: We cycled 77 km. from Palakadd to Udulmaippettai. A man, Sasidharam, invited us to a school and to his house for tea, masala dosa, and coconut stew.

At 10:00 a.m, the sun is frying us like eggs over easy. We are now only fifteen kilometers from the state border of Tamil Nadu in the hot lowlands between two mountain ranges. A man riding a motorcycle pulls to ride beside us.

"Hello!" he greets us with a smile. "Where are you from?" he asks.

"We are from America!"

"What is your name?" he asks

"I am Steve and she is Teresa."

"What do you do? Your job?"

"I am a farmer of goats, making cheese. She is a teacher," Steve replies.

"I am a teacher! Please come. Please come to my school. I want to show the students American people."

"I would love to! I am a teacher and I love to see students!" I reply enthusiastically.

"Thank you! Thank you! Please follow me. Only 1 kilometer from here," Sasidharam says.

He rides slowly on his motorcycle and we soon take a left onto a narrow quiet road. An arch welcomes us to an open school. The children are between the ages of five and nine. They swarm around us, buzzing with curiosity.

"How are you?" they ask.

"I am fine, thank you!" I reply, again and again. My response sends them into a bout of shy laughter.

"What is your name?" they ask.

We take photographs together. Sasidharam shows me a newspaper article in malayaram (mother tongue). I laugh as I cannot understand a word or a character.

"What is the first article talking about?" I ask pointing to the bold characters at the top.

"It says for the first time, the monsoon is not coming. There is climate change. All the farmers have a difficult time. The rice is dry. In June, July, all the years there is heavy rain all the day. Now, there is no rain."

The article reminds me of the situation in Honduras, when there too, the rainy season does not come like it used to and people are suffering without their usual bean and corn crop.

"You like tea? Something to eat? Masala Dosa?" he asks.

"Tea is ok, but we already eat," we reply.

"You please come to my house. You will see my wife and daughter."

The children and the other teachers wave good-bye. "Tata! Bye, bye!" The children wave.

Once again, we caravan, motorcycle leading us and just around the corner, Sasidharam leads us to his house where his wife and eldest daughter greet us.

"We are so happy to have you as a guest. You are welcome in our house."

In minutes, Sasidharam's wife brings us chai tea and two heaping plates of masala dosas with coconut chutney.

Even though we say we are full, she insists that we eat.

We show them our Indian map and explain how we have cycled from Bangalore to Mysore to Madikeri and South. They are fascinated with our adventure.

Neena, Sasidharam's wife brings out several photograph albums. Even though she struggles with her English, she is able to tell me about the photographs.

"House warming ceremony... wedding..."

Sasidharam makes a call on his cell phone. We hear him excitedly talk in his native language. We understand three words: Americans, cycle, and Bangalore, from his conversation.

Then surprisingly, he passes the cellphone to Steve. "My cousin," he says, "U.S.A"

Sasidharam's cousin, we learn, speaks fluent English and is working in Detroit for a Ford Contractor.

Wow! The world is small and we really are so connected to one another.

The family gifts us with a figurine elephant as a symbol of Hindi for best wishes. I am astounded by their warming hospitality.

We enjoy our two hour visit with them, sharing photographs.

"Please, you can come back and you are always welcome to stay."

Sasidharam, thank you for inviting us into your school and your home.

The visit with Sasidharam leaves us with a warm feeling as we pedal onward towards Udumalaippettai. All day, we feel loved as Shahul and Sonu leave several text messages and call to wish us a safe, careful journey. Good night, Sweet Dreams!

To the reader, may you be blessed with the warmth of friendship today in whatever form, shape, or color it may come. Accept it, let it be, and hold it close as life's most precious gift.

Sonu's thoughts on meeting us

An overnight stay in Mannarkadd ended up turning into a five day stay. Friendship presented itself beautifully in our path and we enjoyed every moment of it. We will forever remember our adventures with Sonu, Shahul, and Muhsin-- meeting their families, walking along the river, skipping stones, motorcycling up into the Silent Valley Jungle... On the last day of our visit, Sonu noticed my journal/notebook. He asked if he could write in it. "Of course! I would love to have you write from your perspective about meeting us!"

From Sonu--

24-June-2009
Wednesday
It was a good night for Muhsin, Shahul and I. We were coming to Silent Valley Hotel to eat broast(roasted chicken). That's the only hotel where broast is available. But when I entered the hotel, suddenly my eyes struck on Steve and Teresa. I felt little bit shy to speak because of thinking how to introduce myself to them, whether you feel any kind of disturbance to you.

"I would like to meet people who from different country and different culture."
This sentence was the very beginning of our brotherly relationship. When I started speaking to you, I could feel that you are very friendly and loving. Almost three hours we spent with you.

25-June-2009
Thursday
The previous day I invited them to M Three Spoken English class. I felt glad to invite you. For Maria Louis and for all the students we gave a surprise.

28-June-2009
Sunday
Time: 8:19 p.m.
Shahul is complaining me to stop writing due to the lack of time. I really really felt so happy to take you both with me. I feel that you are my elder brother and sister. We love you both so much. We love you so much. We feel really heart sending pain in my heart. I hope see you at Munnar on this coming Friday or Saturday. We feel that we have spent years with you even though we spent five days. Love you so much! Sonu

lunes, 6 de julio de 2009

Arranged Marriages

Date: June 25, 2009
Location: Spring Valley Hotel, Mannarkadd, Kerala, India
Accomplishments: We visited a school, met Sonu's mother, brother Soni, sister Sona, and Shahul's mother. We rode motorcycles!

We enjoy a few masala dosas with pea masala then we wait outside our hotel. Sonu and Shahul pull up to our hotel as promised at 9:00. Chai tea is a warm beginning to our day together. Sonu and Shahul ride their motorcycles. We follow behind on our bicycles. The English school is only two kilometers up the hill. The English school is tucked inside a building on the main vein going through town. We ride the motorbikes/bicycles through the building and park them behind the building. Following Sonu and Shahul up the stairs, I feel a bit of anxiety in my stomach. i know that in just moments, the students will enter and I will feel my own uniqueness in their culture. Being inside myself, I easily forget how much I stand out. Sonu and Shahul tell us to wait as they want us to surprise the director. They tell her about our arrival in mother tongue and she beams when we enter her office. Her English is fluent and easy to understand. She informs us that she learned English in London and speaks nine languages.
"The students are interested with you. Please speak with them. Have them practice their English." I turn around and I see that I am surrounded. Little by little, the students arrive, piling in the director's office to take a peak at us (the strange aliens that landed randomly in their school). I feel like a normal boring average American girl, but to them, I am strange. I cannot imagine how I make them feel. I wonder how they perceive me through their eyes. I would like to be one of the school girls just for a day, just to feel, see, be her, in her culture to understand it. The director invites us to come and sit in the front of the classroom. All the girls sit together on two long benches in the front of the classroom. The boys sit together or stand in the back of the room. All of them are young adults or teenagers. I feel a little anxious in front of the classroom with so many eyes on me, but soon my teacher mode is turned on and I easily and slowly explain in clear English where I am traveling to. I talk about my daily life as a teacher. The director compliments me on my beautiful accent and asks me to say all the months and days of the week. I am glad to be of help and I have the students repeat me. Next, she encourages the students to ask us questions.
"What are your favorite foods in America?"
"America is a big mixture of cultures, There are hamburgers, Italian foods like spaghetti and pizzas, Chinese foods, noodles, rice, Mexican tacos... There is even Indian food! In Michigan the fruits are very different. Here, In Kerala India, you have many mangoes, bananas, coconuts. In Michigan, we do not have these growing from the trees because these fruits need tropical weather to grow. In Michigan, we have apples, cherries, grapes, strawberries, and peaches. We have all these that we can pick from the trees. The fruits I very different," I explain.

"Is there a caste system? What is the marriage arrangement and ceremony like?" a girl asks.
"In America, our culture is different," I begin to explain, "Marriage is not arranged. There is no caste system. We can pick who we want to marry by dating and having a girlfriend or boyfriend."
"Whooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo!" the students clamor as if I had stated a swear word.
"We feel that Americans have many divorces and that children are not loyal and united with their family," a boy comments.
"Sometimes this is true,"I reply.
"In India, the marriage commitment is forever. The two families are joined and they will help the couple stay together," another boy adds.

Dear reader, please see the link below about advantages and disadvantages to arranged marriages and freedom of choice marriages. The conversation with the students about marriages prompted me to research more in depth on the internet and the article has great insight into the faults of both cultures.

http://berchmans.tripod.com/arrange.html

As a teacher, one of the greatest pleasures of traveling is seeing children in the schools and how the schools and how they learn.
Thank you so much, Sonu and Shahul for sharing your classroom with us and reaching out to us. You are giving us a little piece of your culture. Is is a priceless gift that will stay in our memories forever.